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I have a new (still in the packaging) Tuff Country traction bar kit # 30695 made for 1969 to 1993 Dodge 4WD. These would also work on a 2WD depending on your spring and U-bolt layout but are made for 4WD due to the high mounting location to allow for better ground clearance. These sell for...

Because it looks better than the original Dodge bumper IMO. - EM

Correct. Shown are 275-70-15s on an 8" wheel on my Utiline (235-75 on 7" wheels on the front). Fit's perfectly. I would not go smaller. - EM

New in the box Tekonsha P3 trailer brake controller, Model 90195, 1 to 4 Axles - Proportional Features: Brake controller activates trailer brakes in proportion to your vehicle's braking action Automatically adjusts trailer's braking based on deceleration of tow vehicle Activates immediately -...

Sorry. I was asking "7Mopar" to clarify his "test-light" connection points and test-light configuration (one lead, 2 leads) when using a test light to set static timing. - EM

Please clarify your test light and the connections you're using. I'm using a single lead test light with a probe tip on the light. If I turn on the key, place the probe tip on the coil negative post and connect the lead to ground I get a "light always-on" condition no matter where I turn the...

It really depends on how much floor you're going to replace. Small sections are no issue with the cab on. Even larger sections can be done by dividing the large piece into smaller sections. The down side is that you have more welding to do. - EM

I've read that this old points related method doesn't work on an electronic distributor. Anyone here tried this? - EM "Connect a test light to the distributor side of the coil with the ignition switch on. Turn the distributor against normal rotation past number 1 and then turn it with it till...

Looking for a 1964-65 Poly 318 short block, STD BORE with manual transmission crank (but will take STD BORE bare block with main caps (no crank shaft)). I do not need pistons, rods, pan, water pump housing, camshaft, flywheel, pulleys, etc. Must be west coast, preferably Pacific Northwest...

I have not but don't really expect any issues. I may end up experimenting with some type of shroud over the center carburetor ports to allow each location to draw an even air/fuel amount. I will run this for a year or less and will change to my new poly, new larger valve heads and will change...

Yes. See attached picture. -EM

You are doing with your engine what I did to mine. My 65' Utiline was a stock slant and 3 speed column shift. I bought a running, well-used Poly for $100 that has 110,000 miles on it. So I cleaned it up, tuned it up, replaced the freeze plugs, replaced valve stem seals, etc. I'm just now...

You would have to measure the shaft length and then the clearance between the front shaft support and the radiator support to see if you have room. I don't recall removing any head bolts to get the shaft out.

Yes, they are very different at the heads. There is a small pin that has a kind of "mushroom" head on it that is in the top of one of the rocker shaft supports. From memory, both the driver's side and passenger side pins are in the support that is at the front of the engine. In other words...

Thanks MM. I found one locally about 2 weeks ago. - EM

Looking for an original (not previously rebuilt) 64-65 318 Poly short block from a manual transmission car or truck. I really only need the block, crankshaft and main bearing caps. The closer to Oregon the better. PM me here. Thanks, EM

Just a couple of pics of my set-up. - EM

One of each of course! - EM

1933 Dodge Model KC - EM

Just found this site and joined and then saw your post. I have a series 1, 65 Utiline D100 (last of the 4-headlight model and the Utiline is a "Step-side" box). Mine is a 110k original mileage truck and while I absolutely love slant 6's I picked up a correct year poly to replace the slant 6...