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Help timing my truck

I'll grab a non-metallic feeler gauge set today and try that. I thought the coil either worked or didn't. If the car starts and idles, I assume the coil works. If it can weaken, I'm willing to replace it.
 
What was wrong with your original distributor? If you think it might be ok, put it back in and see if it runs different and now can be timed.
 
65 sporty said:
What was wrong with your original distributor? If you think it might be ok, put it back in and see if it runs different and now can be timed.
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Original distributor, upon inspection, is all sorts of mangled, but was probably working as well as this one.

The timing cover may have been changed at some point, but I was able to time the engine to 6* advanced before swapping the distributor.

While this won't solve the timing issue, probably, my next guess is clogged exhaust.

The reluctor is now gapped correctly...no change.
 
Do you have a known good distributor you can put in or does a friend have one you can try?
 
65 sporty said:
Do you have a known good distributor you can put in or does a friend have one you can try?
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Sadly, I do not.

The latest episode of Finnegan's Garage is on on my other monitor right now. Dodge motor, broken cam dowel pin was wreaking all sorts of issues. I'm really hoping it's not a cam timing issue (although I haven't ruled that out entirely).
 
If crank timing and distributor timing are correct and not changing how could it be cam timing? Turn the crank backwards and check for timing chain slop. The distributor roter should move with crank rotation.
 
7mopar said:
If crank timing and distributor timing are correct and not changing how could it be cam timing? Turn the crank backwards and check for timing chain slop. The distributor roter should move with crank rotation.
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Good point.

There doesn't appear to be any slop.

Turns out my neighbor has been a mechanic for longer than my truck has existed (so a very long time). We just need to set up a time for him to take a peek. Maybe he'll have an idea? Maybe it's something totally simple that I'm overlooking?
 
I suspect that your damper has slipped, set the timing by ear until it runs decently, give it more advance in little increments then check the timing. It will be off.
You need to find true top dead center in hole #1 and compare it with the mark's on the damper. There not expensive and easy to replace.
 
Some one better read the thread before posting instead of just the title. Other wise welcome aboard.
 
I've read that this old points related method doesn't work on an electronic distributor. Anyone here tried this?

- EM

"Connect a test light to the distributor side of the coil with the ignition switch on. Turn the distributor against normal rotation past number 1 and then turn it with it till the light flashes. Then turn the distributor back to just before to light flashes. It should be real close to where the timing mark will be with it running."
 
"Original distributor, upon inspection, is all sorts of mangled" What was the actual damage?
 
Unhook your vacuum line from the distributor and plug the rubber line Then start and check the timming
 
Earlymopar said:
I've read that this old points related method doesn't work on an electronic distributor. Anyone here tried this?

- EM

"Connect a test light to the distributor side of the coil with the ignition switch on. Turn the distributor against normal rotation past number 1 and then turn it with it till the light flashes. Then turn the distributor back to just before to light flashes. It should be real close to where the timing mark will be with it running."
Click to expand...
Use it all the time. Especially on new builds and when the small block distributor has been pulled. If you have a spark plug inline tester. Spark to the plug can be checked at the same time.
 
7mopar said:
Use it all the time. Especially on new builds and when the small block distributor has been pulled. If you have a spark plug inline tester. Spark to the plug can be checked at the same time.
Click to expand...

Please clarify your test light and the connections you're using. I'm using a single lead test light with a probe tip on the light. If I turn on the key, place the probe tip on the coil negative post and connect the lead to ground I get a "light always-on" condition no matter where I turn the distributor.
 
Earlymopar said:
Please clarify your test light and the connections you're using.
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I don't know what brand it is. It's a pretty basic, non-adjustable timing light with the pick on the number 1 plug as close to the plug as I can get without having it melt to the exhaust manifold. Also, it's powered by the car's battery.
 
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