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D100 Turbo Pet Project

Your 5.2 91 Dakota is a roller cam engine. Illuminates the need for special oils or additives. Great to know these came with the 518 trans.
If your going to rebuild for the turbo this is the way I would go. Would eliminate a lot of special parts.
 
With the GM 3.8 what parts would you be using, injectors only?
I'd be using the ecu, throttle body, injectors, and a couple other smaller parts. Something like the fuel rail I'd have to fabricate.

Your 5.2 91 Dakota is a roller cam engine. Illuminates the need for special oils or additives. Great to know these came with the 518 trans.
If your going to rebuild for the turbo this is the way I would go. Would eliminate a lot of special parts.
Yep, the LA's were roller engines after '87.

Yeah I thought OD on these was pretty nifty, although I never really got a reason to use it.
 
What year 3.8? You will have the same problems as the Jeep computer, the 3.8 uses a crank sensor behind the harmonic balancer and a cam sensor that reads off the cam gear. It needs both for fuel injection, after 88 they are sequential.
 
What year 3.8? You will have the same problems as the Jeep computer, the 3.8 uses a crank sensor behind the harmonic balancer and a cam sensor that reads off the cam gear. It needs both for fuel injection, after 88 they are sequential.
I'm pretty sure the 3.8 would be from an '82-'85. I'm mostly following this article DeBiase EFI text blocks 7-9 explain adapting the injection setup. According to him, the earlier systems are batch-fired while the 86 and later are sequential, and with the batch-fired you only need to know engine RPM (it's with the sequential that you need the cam sensor)
 
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I'm pretty sure the 3.8 would be from an '82-'85. I'm mostly following this article DeBiase EFI text blocks 7-9 explain adapting the injection setup. According to him, the earlier systems are batch-fired while the 86 and later are sequential, and with the batch-fired you only need to know engine RPM (it's with the sequential that you need the cam sensor)
Good read, I forgot about the early distributor engines with injection and yes it is batch fire. The only issue is the Bosch wanna be GM MAF sensor they had a high failure rate. True Bosch parts are good the GM designed one not so much. Like he said in the article you can put it on smaller engines also because GM made a 3.0 Buick 6 also. It sounds like this is a great swap you just need to some junkyard crawling. But I always enjoy that.
 
Good read, I forgot about the early distributor engines with injection and yes it is batch fire. The only issue is the Bosch wanna be GM MAF sensor they had a high failure rate. True Bosch parts are good the GM designed one not so much. Like he said in the article you can put it on smaller engines also because GM made a 3.0 Buick 6 also. It sounds like this is a great swap you just need to some junkyard crawling. But I always enjoy that.
I have time, and unlike many of my generation, I'm not afraid to get dirty!
 
So it's been a while since I opened this thread, but here's an update:

I was finally able to nail down and start one of my projects, and after consideration, if I do finally manage to move forward with a D100 project it'd be with a 5.2 and not a slant. Preferably, once my Dakota wears out I'd rebuild the engine and trans and move both over to the D100 (think someone said modding would be needed for the 518 to fit).

About a month ago my nephew links me to a craigslist ad for a 72 Demon, the car I've been after for some time. $1500 for a mostly-solid body and some upgrade parts already installed, this was the only Demon listed in the whole northwest that was solid and within my price range. A couple weeks ago, I pulled the trigger and got it. I first had to figure out logistics to get it home, it was over in Boise about 450 miles away. Having a hauler service ship it would've pushed my price range a bit. None of my friends with diesel pickups were available. Turns out, I had to look no further than the Dakota in the driveway. Luckily, it came factory with the "tow haul package", radiator trans cooler and a class 3 support in the bumper for a dropdown receiver to bolt to, just enough weight limit for the car on a uhaul dolly. I still did some preventative prep: full fluid check/change, secondary trans cooler, trans fluid change (old stuff was still red, no burnt smell and no gunk/shavings, all good signs). Took the hwy20 route, cut the trip by a few hours (at least) but meant I was subject to the steep eastern oregon grades. With OD off it handled all but a couple long steep ones, had to stop and let it cool down (combination of gunked up radiator and cracked ring on #8). Trans however had no problems, thanks to the 2nd trans cooler. Once I was past the grades, on flat desert and cruising, the OD had no problem taking over. Averaged 11mpg the whole way back, sounds about right for towing.

Between Bend and Burns
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At Juntura before dropping down thru the canyons toward Ontario
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On the way back, west of Ontario before coming back up the canyon
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Finally home, in the garage
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Though the car is off to a good start with brake and suspension upgrades, it has a slant and 904 and those will definitely be swapped.
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I figure I can sell the 904 and maybe keep the slant for a tertiary project, but for a D100 I'll just carry over the combo from my Dakota. I drove it around a bit, and seeing how it drives I kinda came to my senses on trying to use it in a tow-capable pickup. Plus I kinda have some sentimental value with my Dakota, it was my first rig and even as tired as it is it dragged a car home all the way from Boise, so it'd be nice to carry on the block and powertrain whenever a D100 project gets underway. Figure it could do with a rebuild, new radiator with an electric fan upgrade, trans shift kit (and lockup converter if it doesn't already have one).
 
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Do not remember if your d100 is a manual or automatic trans truck.
We have put a d150 automatic cab on a 4 wheel drive chassis. Used a 2" body lift and only had to cut a hole in the floor for the transfer case shifter. If this is 2 wheel to 2 wheel the floor will need no alterations.
 
Do not remember if your d100 is a manual or automatic trans truck.
We have put a d150 automatic cab on a 4 wheel drive chassis. Used a 2" body lift and only had to cut a hole in the floor for the transfer case shifter. If this is 2 wheel to 2 wheel the floor will need no alterations.
It's a 4x4 auto, which is where I believe someone said the floor will need to be altered. My nephew did however mention the chassis swap was an option IF the D100 fit in the Dakota chassis (I may look into that)
 
Suspension on the Dakota is not wide enough. It accepets the older narrow cabs.
So then frame swap is not an option. Well unless I come across one of the few 4x4 models and opt for that, I'll have to either:
  • Mod the trans tunnel
  • Try to change out the transfer case (if possible)
  • Go with a 2wd 518
 
I have not seen a 518 4 wheel drive trans as yet. Do they have a shorter tailshaft like the 727 four wheel and big truck tans? If it has a shorter tail housing will the drive shaft slip yoke slide on the shaft and the seal still work?
If it does maybe a 2 piece shaft would work with the 4 wheel trans.
 
I have not seen a 518 4 wheel drive trans as yet. Do they have a shorter tailshaft like the 727 four wheel and big truck tans? If it has a shorter tail housing will the drive shaft slip yoke slide on the shaft and the seal still work?
If it does maybe a 2 piece shaft would work with the 4 wheel trans.
A two wheel 518 total length is supposed to be 38".
I'm not sure, I'd have to crawl under and try to get an approx. measurement
 
So I crawled under the Dakota to get that trans length, albeit approximate.

From what I saw, 17.5" from tip of tailshaft to where the transfer case bolts to the trans, and 48" or 49" overall trans + transfer case

A518/727 Length - Dodge Ram, Ramcharger, Cummins, Jeep, Durango, Power Wagon, Trailduster, all Mopar Truck & SUV Owners. Dodgeram according to these guys, a518 4x4 trans body is 31.25", adding in approx ~17.5" for the transfer case that comes to 48.75" which is in the ballpark of my measurement.
 
So, lately I've had an idea in mind that kinda segways from my original plan in this thread.

I wanted to keep the powertrain from my current pickup, but I'm told the 518 trans would have to be modded in to fit in a D100. I'm also considering the fact that since the D series was 2WD, my 4WD trans would practically go to waste, and I'd like to still have 4WD. A question I have is, will a 518 trans fit in a 77-78 W100 or W150 shortbed pickup?
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*random internet pic ^

I know the W trucks/Power Wagons were full-time 4x4, but if I just need to cut a hole in the trans tunnel for the 4x4 stick to fit the 518 then I'm ok with that. If the 518 can fit under there then here's along the lines of what I'm visualizing:
  • 5.2L LA w/ EFI (has stock 90s efi setup but for tunability will go for something aftermarket)
  • Mild cam
  • Ported aluminum heads
  • Twin turbos, small ones to keep torque in the low-mid rev range (5-8 pounds boost)
  • Electric-fan-cooled
  • 518 trans with shift kit and lockup converter Lockup converter in a first gen?
 
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Anything with a manual trans cab should not be a problem. Or just take the tunnel from the Dakota and bolt or weld it in. Early tunnels were screwed in anyway and makes working on things easier. Should not be that hard to modify the Dakota trans mount.
 
See I figured that when trying to carry over my 4WD transmission, it might fit in a legit 4WD platform instead of 2WD, so why not shift the goal to a 4x4 platform? Have that 4WD for winter/offroad plus a heavier base for occasional towing. What ratio are those 77-78 W100 axles usually geared to? They came with anything from the slant 6 to the 360, and the 318 would be right in that ballpark, so the axle would imaginably be geared for that, but I'm still curious.

My main dilemma would be making sure I'm in place for a lockup converter. Doing my research, there are the a518(46rh/46re) and a618(47rh/47re) transmissions. The 618s are the heavier-duty lockup-style transmissions, but since they're designed around the V10s and cummins diesels they won't bolt to the standard gasser blocks. The 46RH variant of the 518 went until about '95, and then afterwards the 46RE had its run. Now, here's where the other part of my research comes in:

From that Hemmings article:
"The 46RH transmissions that were used from 1990-'95 have a three-pin electrical connector on the driver's side of the transmission which controls two solenoids, the overdrive solenoid and the torque converter clutch solenoid. These two units are mounted inside the valve body on one common bracket. The 1996 and up model 46RE units have an 8-pin connector instead of the 3-pin, and are less desirable for converting into a non-computerized vehicle. You can locate the A-518/46RH transmissions in these donor vehicles:
  • 1990-'95 Dodge van with a 318 or 360 engine
  • 1992-'95 Dakota with a 318 engine
  • 1990-'91 Ramcharger with a 318 or 360 engine
  • 1990-'95 Dodge pickup two-wheel drive (1/2- through 1-ton) with a 318 or 360 "
Idk if their lockup list is comprehensive so no clue exactly if my trans falls in there. Again, mine is a 4WD from a 91 Dakota, so safe to assume it's the 46RH variant, just not definitive if it's lockup. Their article makes it sound like there are no ECU-controlled components in the trans, only the 3-wire connector for the OD and converter lockup, however that ramcharger post suggests there's more to it:
"For the earlier TBI motors you can still easily swap in the lockup trans AND have it function. In my case I grabbed a trans from a 93 W250 5.9, swapped the converter to a lockup from an A727 5.9, grabbed the trans harness cable from a 91 318 truck, and everything works perfect.
The wiring in the main harness is there for the lockup, ECU had a code from day 1 for no lockup solenoid, programming was there just no circuit to energize. The harness that goes between the main harness and the trans (over by the dipstick) was missing the wiring to the lockup, but the 318's had it, everything else is the same. Installed the harness and that was it."

Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't it sound like the lockup solenoid is controlled by an ECU circuit? Because if so, then I'd either need to try and setup a switch or circuit to manually engage the lockup (would prefer not having to remember to disengage the circuit at every stop) or be slave to the stock ECU. I'd like to not be slave to the conservative tune the ECU is programmed with, and no telling how it'll behave with twin turbos and ported heads, so I may prefer something aftermarket (some kind of piggyback setup?).
 
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