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D100 Turbo Pet Project

LocuMob said:
I have a Lokar shifter I'd sell ya for a good price, only been mounted, never in a vehicle.

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If you didn't want to source a column, and felt like putting another hole in the floor! (Handle is backwards in the pic.)
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I appreciate the offer, butI'll stick with the column shifter for stock appeal (and yes I known I'm voiding that by swapping powertrain
 
K-Note72 said:
I appreciate the offer, butI'll stick with the column shifter for stock appeal (and yes I known I'm voiding that by swapping powertrain
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That's fine, I'm just a smarmy salesman at heart! I thought I'd use it, but I don't want to modify the truck that way, interior-wise, I'm just swapping seats, and maybe the dash. Otherwise it's so spartan I just need to redo the color of the panels.
 
LocuMob said:
That's fine, I'm just a smarmy salesman at heart! I thought I'd use it, but I don't want to modify the truck that way, interior-wise, I'm just swapping seats, and maybe the dash. Otherwise it's so spartan I just need to redo the color of the panels.
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Yeah besides a halfway decent stereo, shifter for 4x4, and switch for OD unit I'd wanna keep the interior stock as well, so that it looks like an old-school rig but has the newer gear in it to make it efficient and more powerful plant. If that lokar was shorter and could be used in place of the 4wd shifter then I'd take you up on it
 
It's only 16" tall! It shirts ohhhhh sooooo smmooootthhhlllyyyy... :hungry:

I went back and forth a few times, trying to determine if I'd use it or not. If no one buys it, it might find it's way into the truck, I don't ever plan on someone sitting in the middle. But I do like the openness of the one shifter- just had a thought. What if I used the lokar for the 4wd selector? That could be cool! Not as tough as that short little stick, but I wouldn't have to bend over so far. I might be onto something.
 
LocuMob said:
It's only 16" tall! It shirts ohhhhh sooooo smmooootthhhlllyyyy... :hungry:

I went back and forth a few times, trying to determine if I'd use it or not. If no one buys it, it might find it's way into the truck, I don't ever plan on someone sitting in the middle. But I do like the openness of the one shifter- just had a thought. What if I used the lokar for the 4wd selector? That could be cool! Not as tough as that short little stick, but I wouldn't have to bend over so far. I might be onto something.
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Yep that's what I was sayin, may look a bit outta place for the regular shifter (on an auto) but it'd look pretty good as a 4wd selector. If someone does sit in the middle, just make sure theyre skinny!
 
K-Note72 said:
Yep that's what I was sayin, may look a bit outta place for the regular shifter (on an auto) but it'd look pretty good as a 4wd selector. If someone does sit in the middle, just make sure theyre skinny!
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A crew cab, that'll only have one person in it, maybe the dog will ride with me!
 
LocuMob said:
A crew cab, that'll only have one person in it, maybe the dog will ride with me!
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I'll stick with a regular cab, at best either 2 friends or a friend and a dog. Definitely don't see any serious relationships in the near future!
 
K-Note72 said:
Yeah a toggle switch is easy, that's basically all there is to the O/D button (no ECU dependency). I just rather have the lockup controlled by some kinda circuit that energized either when the trans is higher than 2nd gear or is going high enough speed that it'd easily be in 3rd or 4th gear. That way if I'm cruising down the highway it'd engage and save some gas, or if I'm going down the hill and the engine is near idle it'll also be engaged and make the engine control my speed. Sure the stock ECU would control all that, and according to that one post all the wiring is there to just hookup the lockup to the ECU (if not already equipped), but if I hop up the engine when I drop it in a power wagon then I may as well just go ECU-delete.

ALTHOUGH, after going back to read the Hemmings article they also shared a fix for this in the last paragraph:
"Install a vacuum switch and two oil pressure switches, which allows the overdrive to engage before releasing torque-converter lockup. PATC's design calls for installing a 7-pound normally open vacuum switch, similar to those used to drive an hour meter, to a direct hot wire (with an inline fuse) off of the ignition switch. The hot wire out of this vacuum switch will run to the center pin of the three-pin connector. The vacuum switch will allow you to engage the torque converter lockup and the overdrive solenoid, if engine vacuum has reached seven pounds. It will also disengage both when you kick the throttle up and engine vacuum drops below 3 pounds. This allows you to revert back to third gear to pass a car or help the vehicle negotiate a hill. If you install two oil pressure switches, this will fine-tune the speeds at which the torque converter lockup engages (this keeps the transmission running cooler) and when the overdrive solenoid engages. These are installed in a pipe tee in the governor pressure tap, which has a pipe plug in this hole from the factory. This is on the passenger side of the transmission case, on a thick mounting rib, just below the upper tail shaft mounting bolt."
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I installed this layout on my Shelby Dakota. In theory it should work, but be aware that it is a real pain to dial in and use. The layout is suuuuper sensitive to vacuum changes. Both up and down throttle. I have been thru 3 sets of pressure switches and hours of "drive-stop-adjust-repeat". I complicated the problem by changing carbs 3 times and then going to FITech induction. Every change requires retuning the vac adjustments. I am now working on how to let the lockup be vac controlled above 50 mph and making the OD manual switch for use at highway speed. All of it can be done but lots of patience, trial and error required.
 
oldskool979 said:
I installed this layout on my Shelby Dakota. In theory it should work, but be aware that it is a real pain to dial in and use. The layout is suuuuper sensitive to vacuum changes. Both up and down throttle. I have been thru 3 sets of pressure switches and hours of "drive-stop-adjust-repeat". I complicated the problem by changing carbs 3 times and then going to FITech induction. Every change requires retuning the vac adjustments. I am now working on how to let the lockup be vac controlled above 50 mph and making the OD manual switch for use at highway speed. All of it can be done but lots of patience, trial and error required.
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Yeah since that post I started seeing posts about how the vacuum switches can be touchy. Supposedly rigging up the oil pressure switches was the more solid option.
 
Well, good news: I confirmed my trans has the 3-wire connector, so it has both the overdrive AND lockup. Good to know for a potential Powerwagon/5.2L+A518 swap.
 
Question, for a 77-78 w100/w150, what size are the brake rotors and drums? I wanna look into what my brake options would be, and research any aftermarket mods if I don't like what I see
 
As a follow up to the vac control issue. I had installed the pressure switches and a master vac sw according to the PATC instructions. The pressure switches did keep the LU & OD from coming on below 45mph but at road speed the vac change due to the lockup release was interfering with the OD release/engagement. I ended up putting a manual sw on the OD and separate vac switches on the OD and LU along with the pressure switches. The pressure switches keep LU & OD from engaging below 45-50mph. The manual switch on OD lets me engage the OD only when I want it (generally at 60+ cruise) and the separate vac switches allow for individual engage/release adjustment so the LU and OD don't interfere with each other under moderate acceleration or load on hills at highway speed.
 
oldskool979 said:
As a follow up to the vac control issue. I had installed the pressure switches and a master vac sw according to the PATC instructions. The pressure switches did keep the LU & OD from coming on below 45mph but at road speed the vac change due to the lockup release was interfering with the OD release/engagement. I ended up putting a manual sw on the OD and separate vac switches on the OD and LU along with the pressure switches. The pressure switches keep LU & OD from engaging below 45-50mph. The manual switch on OD lets me engage the OD only when I want it (generally at 60+ cruise) and the separate vac switches allow for individual engage/release adjustment so the LU and OD don't interfere with each other under moderate acceleration or load on hills at highway speed.
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So it functions just as it would of in 93 only with out a brain box.
 
Its on my 89, but that was the intent to duplicate the functionality without the ECU. Removing the ECU is a real challenge since it controls the fuel pump, safety switches, some trans functions, charcoal purge controls and AC cycling.
 
What you going to do with the discarded electronics?
Are you still using the ecu driven instrument cluster?
What I have been looking for is the instrument cluster and wiring harnes for dash and engine compartment. Will eventually need to replace the fuel tank or install an electric pump. I have everything else to efi the 82.
 
@7mopar
I am still using the instrument cluster and dash wiring. The 89 cluster was still all analog with ground control routed thru the ECU on the temp sensor and a/c evap sensor. I do have a spare ECU but I'm not sure that it would help you with anything unless you are going to use the factory TBI and controls. You can stay out of your tank by using a hi-pressure sump in the engine compartment such as Hyperfuel. If you go that route I would recommend using one that requires a full return line to your tank. I tried a returnless system (FiTech FCC) and had fuel overheat problems in heavy traffic. It seized the internal pump. Lots of trade-offs in plumbing the fuel system underhood vs in-tank. Overall cost is about the same $400-800 depending on what equip you chose.

@K-Note72
I appreciate you checking. I think what you are referencing is their link to PATC which sells a 44psi and 50psi switch setup along with the vacuum switch. I have just expanded their version a little to provide better adjustability and control. I think PATC also has a version designed for diesel use without any vacuum control, but the electronics involved add some serious expense.
 
All ready have the ecu. The system is 89. Took everything from the van the engine came out of. Only problem is the ecu location in the van makes the wireing harnes about worthless.
 
7mopar said:
Trans adaptors carries controllers for both diesel and gas systems for the od trans.
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I didn't find it with Trans Adaptors, but looking up "a518 controller" I found this COMPUSHIFT Mini for Chrysler A518/46RH and Chrysler A618/47RH

Anything that doesn't rely on vacuum is something I'll consider. Remember, at this point in planning I'm decided on a turbo'd small block, which kinda throws any vacuum-reliance out the window
 
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