7mopar
Well-Known Member
If I fail to write a parts and year manual the next owner will be at a loss. Most is Chrysler or Ram original. The key will be knowing from what and the year.
Reviving an 87 D150
- Thread starter Gustav
- Start date
65 sporty
Well-Known Member
Great you got it started, don't run it too long with the coil straight to 12v unless it's a internal resistor coil. If it's a external resistor coil like Mopar usually are you need the ballast resistor to cut down the voltage when running.
Gustav
Active Member
Yeah, I'm not planning to run it that way long term, just helped to diagnose the issue. I gotta figure out where the issue is - very strange one.
7mopar
Well-Known Member
Here is the wiring diagram I have used for years. if not 5 pin forget about pin 3 and associated wiring. No dual ballsit will be required with the 4 pin setup.
Gustav
Active Member
Thanks for uploading! Hopefully it will help deduce what's going on
Gustav
Active Member
Alright everybody, just wanted to provide a real quick update on the truck - I got it running and driving last month, which feels great.
Solved a bunch of little issues, too, like the tailgate not opening as one of the hinges had broken off. Also re-routed the exhaust a little bit for more clerance. Fun to practice welding.
The bad new is that it's still smoking out of the driver's side tailpipe, same as what started my whole rebuild process. Definitely coolant.
I immediately assumed that it was the head gasket, and that I had improperly gauged the flatness of the head or something. Spent about a week wondering what it could be, running through all my assembly steps in my head again, etc.
But it did run, so I dropped it off at my local mechanic/mopar mentor and he used a bore-scope and found that it was not the head gasket, but actually a valve seat that had dropped, and cracked the water jacket in the head. Coolant leaking into the exhaust port on cylinder #5. Makes me feel better that it wasn't something I did wrong! Though maybe I could have caught it if I had known what to look for, but the head gasket was in such bad shape, I assumed that was the culprit (might have also been bad).
Of course, this is bad news, haha. Because the machine shops around her don't really want to do the work to fix it (welding cast iron), and I haven't been able to find a replacement head yet. But At least it's an easy replacement, once i get my hands on one.
Anybody have one lying around?? I'd be quite happy to buy it from you.
It was, at least, nice to see the truck somewhere other than my driveway
Solved a bunch of little issues, too, like the tailgate not opening as one of the hinges had broken off. Also re-routed the exhaust a little bit for more clerance. Fun to practice welding.
The bad new is that it's still smoking out of the driver's side tailpipe, same as what started my whole rebuild process. Definitely coolant.
I immediately assumed that it was the head gasket, and that I had improperly gauged the flatness of the head or something. Spent about a week wondering what it could be, running through all my assembly steps in my head again, etc.
But it did run, so I dropped it off at my local mechanic/mopar mentor and he used a bore-scope and found that it was not the head gasket, but actually a valve seat that had dropped, and cracked the water jacket in the head. Coolant leaking into the exhaust port on cylinder #5. Makes me feel better that it wasn't something I did wrong! Though maybe I could have caught it if I had known what to look for, but the head gasket was in such bad shape, I assumed that was the culprit (might have also been bad).
Of course, this is bad news, haha. Because the machine shops around her don't really want to do the work to fix it (welding cast iron), and I haven't been able to find a replacement head yet. But At least it's an easy replacement, once i get my hands on one.
Anybody have one lying around?? I'd be quite happy to buy it from you.
It was, at least, nice to see the truck somewhere other than my driveway
7mopar
Well-Known Member
Your location is way to far away. I am also not sure of our small block stock. We do have an almost complete 318 in storage.
65 sporty
Well-Known Member
Shouldn't be too hard finding a used head or reman
Check here for used, Car-Part.com
Check here for used, Car-Part.com
StrokerMan
Active Member
Dang wish I had known. Had some 340 heads I sold a while back.
PentaTruck
New Member
I was wondering how that aluminum radiator is working out? I have to replace mine and the choices are limited.
Gustav
Active Member
Figured I should post an update to this thread for all those wondering - the engine is truck is seized. Something went wrong between getting it to the shop and it moving to the back of the lot... it won't turn over in either direction with a big breaker bar on the crank pulley. Sparkles in the oil.
It's strange, since I did the full break-in procedure for the new cam to the T, and when I drained the oil after running it for the break-in period, there wasn't any sparkly stuff in that oil. So I'm a bit stumped. But Not too worried about that - I have to start thinking about the new engine that's going in it. My mechanic's dad has a lower mileage 318 sitting around and we're going to throw that in the truck after a once-over.
Will update with progress as it happens.
Second time's the charm? Hope so.
It's strange, since I did the full break-in procedure for the new cam to the T, and when I drained the oil after running it for the break-in period, there wasn't any sparkly stuff in that oil. So I'm a bit stumped. But Not too worried about that - I have to start thinking about the new engine that's going in it. My mechanic's dad has a lower mileage 318 sitting around and we're going to throw that in the truck after a once-over.
Will update with progress as it happens.
Second time's the charm? Hope so.
Gustav
Active Member
I've only run the truck a little bit with it, but the new aluminum rad works great, as far as I can tell.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician
That sucks, but if you have an engine you're going to put in, at least you're not totally screwed. It's always fun to take apart an engine and determine what and how it happened.
Gustav
Active Member
Thanks, yeah. Honestly the best possible situation for it to happen, so it feels pretty lucky. Starting to prep the engine/engine bay for pulling out the old motor today. It will be good to get this thing running again!
Gustav
Active Member
Getting into this new (to me) engine, and boy it's nice to have a shop to work in and an engine stand! This is new territory for me.
Replacing the connecting rod bearings, all the gaskets, and all the freeze plugs. Not going to send it to a machine shop - just want to get this cleaned up a bit and get it in the truck. Been too long already! But not trying to cut corners. New timing set, water pump, and oil pump going in as well. Swapping over all my new parts from the engine currently in the truck. Looking forward to seeing what exactly went wrong with that one!
More soon.
Replacing the connecting rod bearings, all the gaskets, and all the freeze plugs. Not going to send it to a machine shop - just want to get this cleaned up a bit and get it in the truck. Been too long already! But not trying to cut corners. New timing set, water pump, and oil pump going in as well. Swapping over all my new parts from the engine currently in the truck. Looking forward to seeing what exactly went wrong with that one!
More soon.
7mopar
Well-Known Member
Cam bearings? Very seldom go bad in a Chrysler BB or RB block. Do LA cam bearings also require reaming to get the cam to fit?
Not the ones Ive put in.
I have seen a few engines upon dismantle, that have had flakes/chunks out of the existing cam bearings. I had a 360 magnum that I went thru and the most recent /6 that I overhauled whose cam bearings were that way.
The price of Cam bearings in the overall price of a proper rebuild is minimal besides if I did all that work just to wind up having to do it all over again because I wound up with a mysterious oil pressure issue that was found upon a 2nd disassembly to be a cam bearing with a chunk missing, I wouldn't be happy. And if you are sending it out for a hot tank bath that will eat them out for you anyway then you'd have no choice but to put new ones in.
At very least look em over and check them out good while you're in there.
I have seen a few engines upon dismantle, that have had flakes/chunks out of the existing cam bearings. I had a 360 magnum that I went thru and the most recent /6 that I overhauled whose cam bearings were that way.
The price of Cam bearings in the overall price of a proper rebuild is minimal besides if I did all that work just to wind up having to do it all over again because I wound up with a mysterious oil pressure issue that was found upon a 2nd disassembly to be a cam bearing with a chunk missing, I wouldn't be happy. And if you are sending it out for a hot tank bath that will eat them out for you anyway then you'd have no choice but to put new ones in.
At very least look em over and check them out good while you're in there.
7mopar
Well-Known Member
Where are you finding anyone with an acid hot tank these days? Around here it's a hot soap water jet or bake it clean.
Gustav
Active Member
Did the connecting rod bushings, checked on the cam bearings and they're all pristine. main bearings are also great. This engine had low mileage, apparently, and it seems possible given the condition overall.
Excited to have it painted, should keep it from rusting! Something to look at in the engine bay. Pulling the old engine and installing this one next weekend.