Dads ol dodge

[747mopar]

Like everything on this truck so far you remove a rusted panel and then repair more underneath it! This is the outer lip (top of inner rocker) that the floor spot welds down too, not allot to work with there.

All the bad metal gone.

And of coarse the top of the main floor support was gone too so more rust repair.

The new top tacked in.

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

I use classic 2 current and had great products from them, You have some mad metal skills!

 

[747mopar]

By the end of the night I had it all primed in weld threw primer and ready for the new floor.

 

[747mopar]

I use classic 2 current and had great products from them, You have some mad metal skills!

Thanks, little by little I'm getting it all repaired. Shooting to have it on the road by Spring so I need to stay on it!

 

[bear]

Here's a pic of the miserable Goodmark part next to the Sherman one that actually looks and fits the way it should.

View attachment 6129

The Sherman Floors look really nice, very happy with them.

View attachment 6130

Only issue with the floors is that they don't fit the tranny hump contour but that's easy enough to trim up and get fitted. Unfortunately this floor is gone all the way to the tranny hump and past the front edge of the floor panel so a little extra patching will be required.

View attachment 6131

Here's the rear section in place, pretty nice other than all the wrinkles.

View attachment 6132

That rear section look's like the way it should ! "Big" difference from that Goodmark piece of crap . Thanks for posting the pictures , I'm sure they will help people when there picking up body panels for there own projects .

 

[bear]

Thanks, little by little I'm getting it all repaired. Shooting to have it on the road by Spring so I need to stay on it!

I still can't believe you get all this work done in only two nights a week . To boot you keep the quality of your work right up there as well . Good job !

 

[747mopar]

Good progress, after some trimming to get the floor tight to the cab I marked the support locations on the bottom, drilled the holes, removed the coating and prepped it with weld threw primer.

Started off by attaching it with self drilling screws to get it tight, the holes will be plug welded shut like the factory spot welds (don't have a spot welder). Plug welded the panel in then started cutting threw the panel and the original floor at the same time leaving a 1/16" gap (1/16" thick cutoff wheel) in between the 2 panels for a good full penetration butt weld.

Sorry guys, you won't get to see how the rear panel fits. After looking at the damage (not as bad as I had thought) I just couldn't justify $70.00 to fix something I could easily make in 15 minutes so that's what I did. As you can see the damage was minimal, the seat belt reinforcements on the bottom of the truck seams to hold moisture because both sides are rotted around the brackets. I assure you the panel I bought fits very nicely and is pretty thick as well so I wouldn't shy away from buying one from Sherman.

Here it is almost done, probably another half hour of welding and grinding and I'll be done.

 

[LocuMob]

Thanks, little by little I'm getting it all repaired. Shooting to have it on the road by Spring so I need to stay on it!

I'd have it on the road by spring, I'd just be able to SEE the road! This thread shows the importance of knowing/learning how to weld. Definitely next on my skills to learn list! Nice work 747mopar!

 

[747mopar]

I'd have it on the road by spring, I'd just be able to SEE the road! This thread shows the importance of knowing/learning how to weld. Definitely next on my skills to learn list! Nice work 747mopar!

Thanks. The most important thing when learning to weld is don't skimp on a good welder, a nice (Lincoln or Miller) 110V MIG will do pretty much anything you want to do on a car. Anything thicker than a 1/4" and you better think about a 220V unit. When I say MIG I mean it literally (Metal Inert Gas) so a flux core is not a MIG and isn't the welder of choice for this work. I have about $750.00 in mine but that includes buying a tank and all, the welder itself was about $500-550. If your going to fix these old turds up it's a must and once you have one you'll find yourself doing all kinds of other things with them as well........ money well spent!

 

[bear]

I keep finding myself repeating my myself but once again "nice" job 747Mopar ! When your done all your repair's will be invisible to the eye . Just as it should be . And that was some good advice on welders and welding . What I tell a lot of people as well , is just keep practicing . Even if you just grab some pieces of scrap metal and weld them together here and there . I find it helps you get a feel for the machine your using and helps you with what not to do as what to do .

 

[747mopar]

I keep finding myself repeating my myself but once again "nice" job 747Mopar ! When your done all your repair's will be invisible to the eye . Just as it should be . And that was some good advice on welders and welding . What I tell a lot of people as well , is just keep practicing . Even if you just grab some pieces of scrap metal and weld them together here and there . I find it helps you get a feel for the machine your using and helps you with what not to do as what to do .

Yeap, all you can do is dig in and learn! My brother decided to do a car last year and every time I tried to give him advice about welding "sheetmetal" he just ignored me........ just the other night he told me he wished he knew what he knows now about welding "sheetmetal" when he was doing the car? Hmmmm, I tried to tell you haha. Evidently he just discovered what stitch welding was after burning holes all threw the car haha!

 

[LocuMob]

Evidently he just discovered what stitch welding was after burning holes all threw the car haha!

You can laugh, but I bet he wasn't laughing then!

 

[bear]

It's been a while and I was wondering how the build was coming ?

 

[747mopar]

Thanks for asking, been busy but did manage to create more work for myself. After digging into the rust hole in the front corner of the cab roof I decided it would be a cool idea to just cut the gutter completely off and that's exactly what I did. Looks nice and clean now!

 

[bear]

Cool ! That should clean up the look's of the truck big time . That area is notorious for collecting water and either leaking or rusting out on these trucks . Can't wait to see it !

 

[65 sporty]

Just read the whole thread, great work and keep the pic's coming

 

[747mopar]

This is the only bad spot on the roof.

After removing the rotted metal, blasting it and priming it in weld threw primer.

New lip built and welded in. Forgot to get a pic of the finished patch

Then it goes south haha, I decided to go for a clean look and removed all of the gutters and weld them solid.

 

[747mopar]

Couple more patches, had to bend a new piece for the front door jam and a small patch on the heater flange corner.

 

[747mopar]

You guys wanted a review on all the Sherman metal.... their rockers on a scale from 1-10 are a 6. I hate parts that fail to replace the whole piece and fall short on dimensions so these suck but do look good once fit up. The spot weld lips that weld to the floor and inner rockers are very narrow making anything bigger than a 1/4 plug impossible and even a 1/4 hole has to be drilled as close to the bend as possible leaving a thin amount of metal on the outside so plug welding will be fun. Then they fall short in length meaning I had to patch the rear section and also fit like crap in the front.

Here's the front that doesn't even touch the body, I'll salvage enough of the original to fix this... freaking ridiculous!

As you can see the fit is nice though.

Oh yeah and the shape is off! trying to butt weld to the rear is a no go, the arrow is pointing at where I had to slice the original so I could spread it to get the contours matched.

This is where I had to patch the very rear that they were to lazy to incorporate into the rocker. Believe it or not that ugly gap is what they look like once you remove the seam sealer.

 

[747mopar]

Here's a very handy tool I made out of some vice grips, perfect for burning plug welds in HOT. It straddles the hole to be welded while holding a 1/4" piece of copper pinned to the jaw on the back side so there's no chance of blow threw. It does a great job of making really tight and strong plug welds. Anybody not familiar with using copper in welding, weld does not stick to it so you can even use it for welding holes shut by holding it on the back side.

My new toy, a lot of rust means a way of cleaning it up.