I wrote the following for a post on For A-Bodies Only (FABO): Putting it here as FYI for those who have not worked with them...
The polyurethane bushings, or retainers, appeared on the 1973 A-body and B-body models, then spread throughout most product lines in subsequent years, continuing through the 1990s on some models, including trucks.
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The bushings were not initially serviced separately, but were later released as Chrysler number 3799089, or 03799089. They are still available through Chrysler. The bushings can be difficult to change if attempting it with the linkage still in the vehicle. Those cars with linkage under the dash such as A-bodies and 66-70 B-bodies are not as difficult as those with linkage in cowl, such as 71 and later B bodies and E-bodies. 72-93 D/W trucks are in the middle of difficulty/ease with the removable cowl sheet metal. I have done it in all these cars and trucks, but I prefer removing the linkage and working on the bench, plus I can attend to other things that may need attention while the linkage is out. If one bushing has failed due to age, the others may soon follow suit anyway. Following is how I install them with the linkage out of the vehicle, and it takes longer to clean up the parts and gather tools than to install the actual bushings.
1.) Assemble a fixture tool to install the bushings such as the following that I made:
- 5/16" bolt, about 1"-1/5" long, with the threads on the end ground down and deburred enough to insert without touching the bushing edges, (adjust the bolt exposed end beyond the nut to fit a bushing without pressing on the "back" face),
- 5/16" nut for the bolt, installed before grinding the threads,
- a ~1970 sway bar link washer or similar ~1" large radius curved washer, (the curve roughly matches the profile of the bushing, and the edge contacts the linkage before pressing too far),
- a sleeve that fits around the "back" side of the bushing, or 11/16" 12-point washer, (the sleeve I have is tapered in the opening which helps alignment and preventing damage to the bushing)
- a 3/8" Belleville washer if needed.
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2.) Note the direction of the old bushing installed. Remove the old bushing remains and clean the link where the bushing mounts.
3.) Support the back side of the linkage on the sleeve or socket. If the bushing does not contain grease inside the opening, add white lithium grease, to about halfway fill the pocket. Place the bushing on the opening and ensure it clears the sleeve or socket. Place the washer over the bushing and insert the bolt/nut into the washer and bushing.
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4.) While holding the linkage/bushing/tool, and using a small hammer, sharply, but moderately, rap the bolt head which should seat the bushing in the link.
NOTE: If the washer contacts the link first allowing the bushing to spring back, place the Belleville washer under the larger washer to allow edge clearance of the larger washer.
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NOTE: Lubricant for the outside of the bushing should not be required to install it. If desired, add a small amount of lithium grease or silicone grease/spray to the outside.
4a.) Alternatively to using the hammer, place the linkage/bushing/tool setup in the jaws of large rib joint pliers and squeeze to install the bushing.
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5.) Install the bushing on the pivot post by placing the socket or sleeve on the back side over the bushing. Place bushing opening over the post. Using the large rib joint pliers, the squeeze the socket and post pilot together to install and seat the bushing.
NOTE: Do not push on the bushing itself, use the socket or sleeve to push on the metal linkage. If the bushing pushes through the linkage hole, push carefully on the back of the bushing taking care to not mar or distort the bushing itself.
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The Chrysler 3799089 bushings I have used are superior to aftermarket bushings that I tried. I've seen about a 15-25 year service life from the Chrysler original and replacement bushings. Much less life for aftermarket, plus the install fit did not seem as clean. I had a bag of unknown brand aftermarket bushings turn brown and fall apart in the bag after several years. I last stocked up on Chrysler bushings in 2002:
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Note that the Chrysler bushings contain white lithium grease. The aftermarket may not. The Chrysler bushings are polyurethane, and specify/use lithium grease. Add grease to aftermarket bushings that may not have grease. Lithium grease is as original, but silicone grease could be an alternative if the the bushing material is unknown.
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I just did this on my 1979 Newport. R-bodies, such as my Newport, have hidden wipers with the linkage in the cowl like E-bodies, 1971-later B-bodies, etc. One bushing had broken, but the others were not far behind. All were replaced with Chrysler 3799089 bushings. I replaced the original bushings in the 90s, and the Chrysler 3799089 I used back then were just now replaced. So, on this car, I'm getting about 22 years and 150000 miles per set.
Linkage with new bushings ready to install:
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