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motor build question

Edelbrock but then again pay attention to chamber size & port volume. You can run higher comp with aluminum heads & not detonate. Higher compression is more HP but it is also more heat inside that engine. A stock gasket matched 452 head (which you most likely already have) should be all that you need.

Those big cubes sound great but I can tell you that you would need your own oil company to street drive.
 
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This is a picture of my 526cuin BB engine this is the biggest you can go with a stock block, runs on Methanol cast iron heads about 1000 HP. Good luck with your build
 
Next time I build a new engine with the B1's that I have It'll be around your size with a stock block being that I already have a girdle & all already. What cast iron heads do you have?
 
stroker motor

I have a 440 punched out .030over with a 4.15 stroker crank to make a 496. I put it into a 4200 lb C-body and the torque is phenominal. This is a relatively low rpm motor that will idle all day long but shred the tires at will. This would be a good motor for your mud truck with enough torque to pull you through the bog and still be docile enough to drive to town. I have 10:1 CR with zero deck forged step pistons, 84cc Eddy heads with .042 quench to prevent detonation. Comp 230 dur cam which gives a lot of torque without straining the valve springs. Dynoed at 613 lb/ft tq @ 3400 rpm and 515 hp @5500 rpm. In the end, go for moderation and you will be more happy with the result.

furyous3
 
Are you shure your gunna want to go mudd'in with no inner fender's ? Think about it . There's other way's to light'in up the front over stock and your probably allrewady doing some of it . Replace stock cast exhaust manifolds with headers , replace stock cast intake with aluminum one , replace stock cast water punp houseing with aluminum one , replace stock steel hood with a glass one , etc. All that add's up , and you have to remember your not building a race car your building a 4x4 truck .
 
Oh I missed the no inner fenders. I've taken the stockers out & built some out of that plastic the dirt track guys use. I've also put it across the bottom of the frame of mud racers that I've built Mud dynamics.
 
I've done some mudd'in myself "RCAddict" and that stuff get's thrown everywere . The plastic sheild's sound like a pritty good idea if you decide to remove the inner fenders .
 
You're not kidding about that. We sprayed the underside some kinda oil that they use on a deep water oil rig & the mud wouldn't stay stuck to the bottom & pick up weight. I was surprised when the guys I was doing the trucks for said that it wasn't uncommoin to pick up 300 or so extra lbs going across the pit


It took a little while to build them but after the 1st one I was able to rock & roll. Built them like a rear tub for a drag car. I attached them to a one piece steel tilt or lift off front end that I built also.
 
I can beleive that you could pick up that much weight in mud alone . It's heavey and it get's everywere and if you don't wash it off right away it's a pain to get off after it's been on there a while . The guy I bought my sport off of took it mudding before I bought it and went half way up the doors in some deep sticky stuff and never washed it and here it is about 6 month's later sence I've bought the truck and I'm still trying to get mud out of all the nook's & crany's . ................. That don't sound like a bad idea on the inner fenders and tilt front end . Were did you hinge the nose clip ? Off the rad suport ?
 
I built a heavy duty version of the design they use to attach the front end on a drag car. The rad was mounted to the frame & braced to the engine. The front bumper hinged with the front end.
 
Does the hood open to , or is that permently closed now ? I've thought about going with a glass tilt nose for my 79 but I've been trying to think of a way of makeing it so the nose tilt's and I can still just open the hood to . I think it's a curse because I just can't have anything normal . It's allway's got to be diferent from everyone else's . lol
 
I weld the hood from the inside & cut the bottoms off the fenders & bolt them to the cab & use a portion of the inner fender to secure it. On the street trucks I weld your common door hinge on the bottom of the frame & cut it. I weld angle standing straight up & secure the rad while the core support tilts with the front end. I've done this on almost every kind of truck built except a Stude I use a Dodge truck hood latch setup with inside release to latch it in the rear & pins inside in the lower fenders
 
It sounds like it was all well thought out "RCAddict" . I could'nt find any picture's of your truck . Is there any here ? .... It look's like I wount be trying that out on my 79 step though because I just came back from a bike builder freind of mine and I think I'm gunna try to buy his 41 willys pickup project . So it look's like I might be putting my 79 up for sale as well as my wife's 70 H-Code Dart as a project car instead of getting it running . The willys has been a dream car of mine sense I was a kid ( many , many , many years ago lol ) .
 
bear said:
It sounds like it was all well thought out "RCAddict" . I could'nt find any picture's of your truck . Is there any here ? .... It look's like I wount be trying that out on my 79 step though because I just came back from a bike builder freind of mine and I think I'm gunna try to buy his 41 willys pickup project . So it look's like I might be putting my 79 up for sale as well as my wife's 70 H-Code Dart as a project car instead of getting it running . The willys has been a dream car of mine sense I was a kid ( many , many , many years ago lol ) .
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Those trucks were built 10 years ago or so.
I started doing them like that around 1983 or so
I'm doing my 85 shorty with a tilt probably next winter.
I want to put this in next winter also

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Maaaan "RCAddict" ! What are you gunna be runnin for sneaker's ? Maybe something around 16"or17" wide ? That should look wicked !
 
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