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Lowering my 87 dodge d100

foolonthehill said:
dodge79, RCAddict mentioned using a flip kit part for chevies that will work for the Dodge on the first page of this thread, and it costs about $35-40 bucks. Truth is, however, all you need to do the flip is is get anther set of Mopar spring perches, which you can get from Jeg's or Summit cheaper than that chevie flip kit (they're only $12.99), and weld them directly under the spring perches currently on your rear end. If you aren't a welder, take it to someone who is. If you make sure the new perches are welded in parrellel to to originals, you should have no issues with pinion angle. I'd say you'll need the square type "U" bolts for that, and then you'll need shorter shocks. That's it.
That's it.
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My RC uses Mopar Performance perches You can use stock shocks they won't bottom out
Pinion angle does change when you flip the axle That's why the flip kit has the bracket on side longer than the other that is to correct pinion angle

I mentioned the flip kit for it is easier for those who don't have an angle finder & a welder to lower their trucks correctly

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i would like to get a better stance on my red 81 d150. not sure if a 2-4 drop or like a 4-6 drop. what do you think? with the rear wheels being 15x10 they are about flush with the outer bedside. so can't tuck them in the wheel wells.

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87dodge106 said:
I have an 87 dodge d100 and i was just curious on how to lower it. ive looked around and stuff and looked at lowering kits but im not exactly sure which way i should go and how to do it? any suggestions?
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I would think Dakota rear leaf/shock mounts could be used in place of a flip kit and 1 ton lower control arms
 
74360Duster, I've got 10" wheels on my '86 long bed, and I've got it dropped pretty hard. At least 5" if not more, and although it's close, the tires still don't rub. If it were too close for comfort, you could do what we always did with our drag cars back in the day, and just turn the fender lip up so its not turned in towards the tire. You'd be surprised how much extra room that will give you.
I'll have my new computer tomorrow and after a couple of days of getting used to it and everything set up, I'll post some pictures of my lowered '86, and my next project, lowering my '87. I do have pictures of them over on the mightyramd50 site. I'm on there because my current daily driver is a little 1980 Plymouth Arrow pickup with a 360/904/narrowed 8.75 rear combo. But at the bottom of the forum page it has a "members other rides" section where I've shown some of my truck projects.
 
I believe you can use the Lower control arms from any 1 ton truck from 1972 (as long as it's this body style) through 1993.
Stroll through these search results fromt the Diesel Truck resource, an escellent forum with a killer tech section. It's not just for diesels and it's ALL DODGE!!
Search results, lowering 1st Gen..
http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/search.php?searchid=5277595
Site home.. http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/
And the all-important tech sticky with tons of good stuff for Dodge trucks or darn near any car/truck guy!
http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/showthread.php?t=102027

Hope this helps...

Alan
 
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You can use a pocketed LCA from a 1 ton as long as you use the 1ton steering arms to fit the balljoint & drill the spindles to fit them this will also allow you to use the factory swaybar without relocating it
If you do as I have laid out earlier in this thread one can travel many enjoyable trouble free miles lower to the pavement
The pics of the suspension stops are all from my 1 ton CrewCab The rear from my RC Upcoming are going to be pics of my 85 Shorty with a 5 1/2" front & 7 1/2" rear drop on springs without bags
 
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A few shots of my '87 long bed. This was before we moved the spring hangers up on the frame, so the back end is still a bit high. This is not a bagged truck, just custom control arms and shorter coils. In these photos it has Bell Tech spring hangers in the rear, and new, but de-arched, leaf springs with shorter shocks.
It's shown in front of my old carbon fiber composites shop in Tulsa, Ok, before we moved the company to Kentucky. It'll eventually have 17's on it, and I'm going to make my own carbon fiber bumpers for this and my '87 short bed that are narrower, and incorporate driving/fog light locations, as well as an air dam. I'm also going to round the front wheel wells, and build, essentially, everything forward of the cowl in carbon fiber. Hood, fenders, radiator support, bumper & brackets, grill, inner fender wells, etc. If I get really nuts, I might do the doors too...

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If the lug studs are 1/2NF thread they will. Trucks with large studs 9/16" & larger have a pocketed lca to use those you need the steering arm too & drill your spindle to fit it
 
You can use van Lca's or pocketed 1 ton Lca's & steering arms either way you need to drill the pivot bolt hole to 3/4" If you use 1 ton stuff you need to drill the s steering arm holes on the spindles to 3/4"
 
That's all that I've done so far The front tire is a 225/60/15 & the rear 255/70/15
The rear flip is good for 5" the van LCA's 1.5-2" depending on the springs this left my RC sitting roughly 1.5" higher in the front without changing front tire height Hence the use of 225/60's to level it out I'll be doing my 85 Shorty soon! It'll sit on fats & skinnies
 
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