If it's on the frame then it sounds like it's an aftermarket pump . If it is then there should be only two wires going to it . One ground (black) and one hot (red) . Run a hot wire to the hot and run a ground wire to the ground . If the pump turns on then that will tell you weather it's in the wiring or the pump it's self . If the pump does turn on and your still not getting fuel or enough fuel then I'd just buy a new pump .
Distributor Interchange Help Needed
- Thread starter MOPARGRL4EVR
- Start date
MOPARGRL4EVR
Member
YeahI had to replace it once before back when I first got the truck. The little plastic part of my highbeams switch broke awhile back, and since Im on disability & the want a ridiculous amount for a piece of plastic, I just bought a toggle switch for them....
so I used it to test the pump and no go. Bought a new and it works fine. Truck starts but I can't get it warmed up, it keeps dying on me, so I have a question if you or anyone can help....
With an inline electric fuel pump, if you have the key on & the pumps running, when you hold the accelarator cable open, wouldn't it be feeding a continuous amount of gas into the carb, or should it stop after a few seconds??????
Seems to me it should just flow until you left off, but honestly not sure, just seems the logical thing, and mine stops after a few even though the pump is still running.
so I used it to test the pump and no go. Bought a new and it works fine. Truck starts but I can't get it warmed up, it keeps dying on me, so I have a question if you or anyone can help....
With an inline electric fuel pump, if you have the key on & the pumps running, when you hold the accelarator cable open, wouldn't it be feeding a continuous amount of gas into the carb, or should it stop after a few seconds??????
Seems to me it should just flow until you left off, but honestly not sure, just seems the logical thing, and mine stops after a few even though the pump is still running.
That depends on what pump your running . Some of them have a constant pressure and you should be running a return line for any unneeded fuel . Others only supply fuel when under demand for it . So you would hear it back down if your just idling .
Jarlaxle
Member
If the pump uses the stock fuel pump wiring, it should have a safety switch to shut it off if there is no oil pressure.
MOPARGRL4EVR
Member
Well....I got under there and replaced the old pump....it "was" toast.
Thing is I get under there and it's not set up right. (when I replaced it before a friend did it for me)...anyway, it's suppose to be
tank - pump - filter - carb but mine was set up with the pump & filter switched, so when I replaced it I ran it right, and guess what, it wouldn't work at all.
So I just got back under there today & switched it back and voila...working, carbs getting gas, pumps running, etc.
I can get the truck started just fine & get it run for a bit (needs to warm up bad after months of sitting) but it won't stay running, after awhile, 1 to 2 minutes it just dies like it's not getting gas anymore. Then it won't start back up for about 5 minutes or so. I know I'm not flooding it out, so I just don't get it.
Jarlaxle.... nothing about this truck is stock other than the body, hence why when something does go wrong its a huge headache. More thankful for this site then some may realize. But thank you for the idea. I learned there was no safety cut off a few years back when I had a to drop the tank and learned that since they switched out the motor, many things no longer apply to my truck.
Thing is I get under there and it's not set up right. (when I replaced it before a friend did it for me)...anyway, it's suppose to be
tank - pump - filter - carb but mine was set up with the pump & filter switched, so when I replaced it I ran it right, and guess what, it wouldn't work at all.
So I just got back under there today & switched it back and voila...working, carbs getting gas, pumps running, etc.
I can get the truck started just fine & get it run for a bit (needs to warm up bad after months of sitting) but it won't stay running, after awhile, 1 to 2 minutes it just dies like it's not getting gas anymore. Then it won't start back up for about 5 minutes or so. I know I'm not flooding it out, so I just don't get it.
Jarlaxle.... nothing about this truck is stock other than the body, hence why when something does go wrong its a huge headache. More thankful for this site then some may realize. But thank you for the idea. I learned there was no safety cut off a few years back when I had a to drop the tank and learned that since they switched out the motor, many things no longer apply to my truck.
First off , It shouldn't make a difference weather the filter is before or after the pump unless you have a filter with a return line on it . Then it would because your pump would be trying to pump the fuel into both the feed and the return line . Personally when I run aftermarket electric pumps , I like putting a filter before the pump so I can keep anything from getting into the pump as well as the carb ...... Now for your second issue . When it die's after a few minutes , have you checked to see if it is a fuel issue ? If it is then this might sound a little silly but the next time to go out to start it cold , try taking your gas cap off before you start it . I'm thinking that the gas tank might not be vented and it's causing a vapor lock condition .... Give it a try , with everything you've been threw with this truck , It's an easy check at this point .
MOPARGRL4EVR
Member
Well Bear, I tried what you said & it didnt work, it still died after a few.
This guy down the street said he'd come over this weekend & try to help.
So fingers crossed since there really is only so much I can do alone when it comes to timing and such.....he seems to think that's the problem.
I've worked on timing issues in the past on many makes, but never had a vehicle do what this one is, that wasn't about fuel.
This guy down the street said he'd come over this weekend & try to help.
So fingers crossed since there really is only so much I can do alone when it comes to timing and such.....he seems to think that's the problem.
I've worked on timing issues in the past on many makes, but never had a vehicle do what this one is, that wasn't about fuel.
I can't see how it could be a timing issue because the truck starts and runs . The problem is that it only runs for about five minutes then dies . It still sounds like a fuel issue to me . Have you pulled any of the plugs to see if there fouling out ? If there gas fouled then it could be flooding out . What carb do you have on it ? Please don't say a Holley 4 bbl. .
MOPARGRL4EVR
Member
The neighbor never showed, no surprise around here, and yeah I didn't see how it could be timing either, so thanks for the confirm.
Yes some of the plugs are fouled & thats my task for today, cleaning them all again...but they are oil fouled, been an issue for a little while because I have a slow seepage & need to replace the valve cover gaskets (which I already have) just had other issues to deal with that were a bigger problem, as you know, lol.
It's not a 4 bbl, its a 2bbl Holley 2300
Another thing I tried was making sure the fuel pump relay switch was working. It tested fine, and to double check I toggled the pump direct to the battery but still same issue. The motor's is getting warm before it dies.
So could this be a blockage in the water flow that's doing this?
Yes some of the plugs are fouled & thats my task for today, cleaning them all again...but they are oil fouled, been an issue for a little while because I have a slow seepage & need to replace the valve cover gaskets (which I already have) just had other issues to deal with that were a bigger problem, as you know, lol.
It's not a 4 bbl, its a 2bbl Holley 2300
Another thing I tried was making sure the fuel pump relay switch was working. It tested fine, and to double check I toggled the pump direct to the battery but still same issue. The motor's is getting warm before it dies.
So could this be a blockage in the water flow that's doing this?
I can't see were water blockage would cause it to die after about 5 minutes . Two things "MoparGirl" . First , The next time you start it . Let it run until it dies . Then while your trying to start it again check to see if your getting fuel as well as spark . You should be getting fuel because you have the fuel pump hard wired with a switch and not threw the truck it's self . But check it anyways . Second , I just remembered that the truck it's self is an 89 . I assume that it still has the PCM ?
MOPARGRL4EVR
Member
Well after 3 days of almost constant rain I got the chance this morning to work on it some more.
First off "Bear" I only had the pump on toggle to do the tests, when all checked out I hooked it back up to the relay, sorry if I didn't make that clear before.
It's always gotten gas after it died, but I checked for spark & I am getting that as well. Although my coil wire did seem kind of warm.
When I cleaned the plugs I did however realize that they are fuel fouled. I take it that means the carb is dumping to much gas in & I need to make adjustments.
I checked the fuel level in the float bowl and it's just below the view hole, which from what I've read is where it's suppose to be.
And finally, yes it does still have its comp module, although during the process of finding the ground for the original coil I did find out that a lot of the wires are no longer hooked up to anything, they run to clips or connections that lead nowhere or have been removed. The truck was like that when I got it 4+ years ago.
First off "Bear" I only had the pump on toggle to do the tests, when all checked out I hooked it back up to the relay, sorry if I didn't make that clear before.
It's always gotten gas after it died, but I checked for spark & I am getting that as well. Although my coil wire did seem kind of warm.
When I cleaned the plugs I did however realize that they are fuel fouled. I take it that means the carb is dumping to much gas in & I need to make adjustments.
I checked the fuel level in the float bowl and it's just below the view hole, which from what I've read is where it's suppose to be.
And finally, yes it does still have its comp module, although during the process of finding the ground for the original coil I did find out that a lot of the wires are no longer hooked up to anything, they run to clips or connections that lead nowhere or have been removed. The truck was like that when I got it 4+ years ago.
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I asked you to check to see if you were still getting fuel and a good spark after it died for a couple of reasons . One obviously so we know were to look for the problem . Two I worked on a truck before that the previous owner had done the reverse of what yours did . They swapped an 84 non computer carbed truck to an 89 computer fuel injected set up and that truck would start right up and run fine for about ten minutes and then die . Let it sit for about 20 minutes or so and it would start right up again . Sound familiar ? That I finally figured out it was the hail affect sensor . I started thinking . The distributer that you pulled out had an old style magnetic pickup in it and if I remember right the new one you put in didn't . So I was thinking that the new set up you put in might be sending the computer a false signal causing it to cut off after a few minutes . But if your definitely getting gas and you still have a good spark then I don't see it being that . A couple of things could be causing the plugs to fuel foul . #1 Not a hot enough spark ( bad wires , bad coil ) #2 To much fuel ( bad carb , to much fuel pressure , return line blocked , choke closing up ) #3 Old plugs ( you can only clean plugs so many times before they just need to be replaced
MOPARGRL4EVR
Member
Heya Bear
Well I went through your list of possible problems, and here's what I got....
When I replaced the Distributor I also got a new cap & rotor & plug wires. I replaced my spark plugs about 3 months before the truck went down, and the coil less than a year ago. I only drive about a 100 miles or less a month, so I only cleaned the plugs to be sure they weren't the prob. I rechecked the gap as well before reinstalling them. Double checked that all of the wires had good connections & so forth.
So that leaves me with the carb, which isn't a shocker. I downloaded the specs & manuals from Holley. I however cannot get the screw & nut on the pump lever to break free so I can adjust that. I already knew that their wasn't a choke on this carb at all & they removed the choke plate altogether. There also isn't a return line that I could find, just one inline from the pump.
The fuel level in the float bowl is correct according to Holley and other places I went for reference.
I have a feeling that the pump lever is the problem since I can't adjust it. I'll be going over the spec sheets I got from Holley today & trying a bit more on it. I'm just getting fed up to be honest, I've rebuilt over a 100 carbs but this thing is irritating.(Mainly because I've been working on this truck for so long now.)
I can't afford to buy a rebuild kit this month, let alone another carb.
Well I went through your list of possible problems, and here's what I got....
When I replaced the Distributor I also got a new cap & rotor & plug wires. I replaced my spark plugs about 3 months before the truck went down, and the coil less than a year ago. I only drive about a 100 miles or less a month, so I only cleaned the plugs to be sure they weren't the prob. I rechecked the gap as well before reinstalling them. Double checked that all of the wires had good connections & so forth.
So that leaves me with the carb, which isn't a shocker. I downloaded the specs & manuals from Holley. I however cannot get the screw & nut on the pump lever to break free so I can adjust that. I already knew that their wasn't a choke on this carb at all & they removed the choke plate altogether. There also isn't a return line that I could find, just one inline from the pump.
The fuel level in the float bowl is correct according to Holley and other places I went for reference.
I have a feeling that the pump lever is the problem since I can't adjust it. I'll be going over the spec sheets I got from Holley today & trying a bit more on it. I'm just getting fed up to be honest, I've rebuilt over a 100 carbs but this thing is irritating.(Mainly because I've been working on this truck for so long now.)
I can't afford to buy a rebuild kit this month, let alone another carb.
Could be the carb ( I Hate Holley's anyway lol ) but what gets me is that it starts and runs fine for a while before it dies . Normally if a carb is bad , it's bad . ... With the aftermarket fuel pump , what's the fuel pressure set at ? I assume you have a regulator ?