First off . In the picture of your pinion snubber . What do you have that adjusted at ? It look's way to close in the picture but it might be just the angle I'm looking at it . Second . I watched the video of you at the track . Please don't take this the wrong way but you need more seat time launching and running that truck hard . I know it's not easy racing with a stick or a truck and you've got both . Keep at it , You'll get there .
Best way to get traction at the strip with trucks?
- Thread starter cu440da
- Start date
cu440da
Active Member
The snubber was set with about 3/4" clearance. The Mopar chassis book said that manual cars should have about 1/2" clearance, but the way it adjusts it has either no clearance or what I had.
I recorded that run with my Torque app w/ track recorder that overlaid my rpm's on the screen. The launch was around 4300 and it didnt lose rpm's after the initial bite. I am trying to figure out how to pull that video w/ overlay off my phone.
I will take any advice on driving it. I have only got 5 time trials and 3 eliminations under my belt with this set up. If I go this Saturday, I think it will try shifting higher, around 6500 instead of 6000. Also, not sure if higher rpm launches will help. While my 60' times didn't vary much, it seems the spring wrap wasn't as violent at higher rpm's launches possibly due to tire spin. I did manage to spin one of the tires on the rim about 3" last weekend. Whether that was at once or over the whole day I didn't notice.
I recorded that run with my Torque app w/ track recorder that overlaid my rpm's on the screen. The launch was around 4300 and it didnt lose rpm's after the initial bite. I am trying to figure out how to pull that video w/ overlay off my phone.
I will take any advice on driving it. I have only got 5 time trials and 3 eliminations under my belt with this set up. If I go this Saturday, I think it will try shifting higher, around 6500 instead of 6000. Also, not sure if higher rpm launches will help. While my 60' times didn't vary much, it seems the spring wrap wasn't as violent at higher rpm's launches possibly due to tire spin. I did manage to spin one of the tires on the rim about 3" last weekend. Whether that was at once or over the whole day I didn't notice.
cu440da
Active Member
Also, I just picked up some spare leaf springs that I plan on adding to the spring pack to combat the spring wrap. Has anyone played around with adding springs to just the front segment? The rear segment (at least in cars) does the majority of the springing, and I would like to keep the ride like it is. Cutting the added springs behind the axle would only add stiffness to the front. Hopefully...
cu440da
Active Member
Figured out the video overlay. My previous post has had the video updated. Check it out.
Not sure why the gps speed was acting up. It might have been super laggy because the phone was on the dash all day and was literally about to melt.
Not sure why the gps speed was acting up. It might have been super laggy because the phone was on the dash all day and was literally about to melt.
I've heard of people doing that in cars but not in a truck . Can't tell you how or if it's going to work in your case . Don't forget that your running a spring over axle were as cars are spring under . The height of the rear of your truck will be going up with the more that you add .
Okay , It looked a lot closer in the picture . I've always set them at about a 1/2" even if that meant welding a plate where the snubber is going to hit .
It's hard trying to help someone run there truck the best way and not being there in person . So please bare with me . This is going to have to be a trial and error type of thing . Your going to have to try a couple of different things . With my Warlock , I've had to learn the best way to drive it hard without wheel hop and without my tires going up in smoke and me just sitting there . I've got it down now where I spin and pull hard at the same time . This winter , I've got three things on my to-do list for it and traction is one of them and having done all kinds of research I can't find anything I like for off the shelf traction control for trucks like ours . The best thing I found that interest me is the Cal tracks with a mono leaf . But I haven't gotten a chance to check to see even if they have a set up like that that will work in our trucks . I'm guessing the cost will be between a $1000 to $1500 if they do . I don't have that kind of money right now so I'm going to start with fabbing up my own design of traction bar set up and probably give that a shot with the bigger tires I plan on . For now with your truck , I'd try leaving a little harder ( Higher RPM ) . So that you spin and pull ( like I do ) . I believe your running a six speed ? Then maybe try leaving in second gear ? That would give you a little less torque out of the hole . As to when to shift ? At what RPM do you start running out of motor ? Shift right before that . Do you power shift ? I know all of this is a lot to take in but like I said , it would be a lot easier in person . Hope at least some of this helps .
cu440da
Active Member
They do make them for the trucks and from what I have seen the cost is the same as the car kits- $339 for the bars. They can also make the mono leaf to fit trucks as well. If you went the complete Caltrac route with the bars, mono leafs, and shocks you'd be around $1000.
I talked with a guy at the track who was using them on his 90's Dakota drag truck. He seemed to like them, although he was still getting them sorted out.
Yeah , I was talking about everything together as far as price wise . Me and a buddy of mine are thinking of going that route with his built 65 Coronet this winter and then that's when I started thinking of the same set up for my Warlock . But if I'm going to do it then I'm going to do it all . But with that and the couple of other things on my to-do list for the truck , I don't think I'd be able to swing it .
I forgot to mention that I'm also looking to get some fresh rubber for the rear for next season and that's going to be running me about $700 alone . It adds up quick ! lol I think the ideas I have on the traction bars I'm going to fab up "should" help a lot . Time will tell I guess . More then likely I'll be looking for a bigger set of slicks next season as well for when I run it at the track . But I'll probably look for a good used set hopefully with wheels and just sell the 10" ones I have now . The tens kind of look lost with my rear end a couple of inch's shorter then the stock one .