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'98 2500 Starting Issues

LocuMob

LocuMob

Fluid Technician
Joined
Mar 20, 2015
Messages
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Location
Winnebago, Mn
My "new" '98 Ram 2500 4x4 5.9 gas engine has decided it doesn't want to start. Cranks and sputters real quick, but won't fire. It's very similar to the issues I was having when it was below zero this past winter. This is the first time it has ever done this during warmer weather.

Engine has 250,xxx miles, and has been reliable as anything I've ever owned. It just wouldn't start on Tuesday when I went to go to the store.

One fun part of this is that some electrical in the truck is not working properly after I installed a towing mirror two years ago. Cheap Chinese part (I only installed one, as the other side had the rubber door seal installed backwards), I didn't disconnect the battery when installing, and afterwards I didn't have power to the radio, the dome light, and as I found out later, the OBD-II port. So I can't use the scanner to see what code(s) may have popped up.

A friend told me to turn the key three times, leaving it in ON the third time, and read the code it flashes. That didn't work, or it's the wrong number of times of cycling the ignition.

Truck was never intended to be a daily driver, so it's not urgent, but I hate having it down, I like being able to use it when it's needed. Seems the whole fleet is in need of repair at the same time, I was here two years ago. :banghead:

My thought is (free), reinstall the original mirror and see what happens. I don't tow a camper anymore, so I don't need the extra visibility, but it is nice. Then I may be able to read the code and figure it out. I have a guess what may be wrong, but I'm not throwing parts at it. I hate most things with electronic parts that fail, so I'm sure I'm missing something if not a lot.

Watch, it'll start next time I turn it over.
 
Check the fuses to see if one is blown, usually when the OBD II port has no power it's a fuse. Pull codes out then. If you still can't get codes, you will need a helper, check for spark at the coil then at the plugs. If you have spark, pull the air cleaner housing and either put some fuel down the throttle body or some starting fluid (ether) if it starts you have a fuel problem. Do you here the fuel pump when you cycle the key?
With OBD II I don't think you can flash codes you need a scan tool
 
I agree with 65 sporty, check all of the fuses 1st. I am going to post a link where I downloaded the factory service manual for my 2001 for free. 99-01 & 02 2500-3500 are pretty much the same wiring and things.
www.wedophones.com look for a link to manuals, then automotive manuals. It has helped me greatly.
 
LocuMob said:
My "new" '98 Ram 2500 4x4 5.9 gas engine has decided it doesn't want to start. Cranks and sputters real quick, but won't fire. It's very similar to the issues I was having when it was below zero this past winter. This is the first time it has ever done this during warmer weather.

Engine has 250,xxx miles, and has been reliable as anything I've ever owned. It just wouldn't start on Tuesday when I went to go to the store.

One fun part of this is that some electrical in the truck is not working properly after I installed a towing mirror two years ago. Cheap Chinese part (I only installed one, as the other side had the rubber door seal installed backwards), I didn't disconnect the battery when installing, and afterwards I didn't have power to the radio, the dome light, and as I found out later, the OBD-II port. So I can't use the scanner to see what code(s) may have popped up.

A friend told me to turn the key three times, leaving it in ON the third time, and read the code it flashes. That didn't work, or it's the wrong number of times of cycling the ignition.

Truck was never intended to be a daily driver, so it's not urgent, but I hate having it down, I like being able to use it when it's needed. Seems the whole fleet is in need of repair at the same time, I was here two years ago. :banghead:

My thought is (free), reinstall the original mirror and see what happens. I don't tow a camper anymore, so I don't need the extra visibility, but it is nice. Then I may be able to read the code and figure it out. I have a guess what may be wrong, but I'm not throwing parts at it. I hate most things with electronic parts that fail, so I'm sure I'm missing something if not a lot.

Watch, it'll start next time I turn it over.
Click to expand...
Did you ever get it running?
 
I finally had a minute to check out the truck. Wouldn't you know it, the damn thing started right up. I'll reinstall the stock mirrors, and see if the dome light and radio work again. If they do I'll scan the computer and see what codes are stored.
 
Not since I've owned it. I have all the parts for it, and was going to throw them in back when it was down for the water pump and power steering pump deal. It just popped off other than it's below zero deal, so I held off. Guess it's finally time. But the power steering gear is pissing out fluid, that I replaced two years ago, and I haven't put squat for miles on it. I don't need it but for a couple of things around town, so it's not a rush, I have that four speed car to get on the road first. I'll get to it soon, five days off every other week will help.
 
ON,OFF,ON, OFF, ON. Do NOT turn to START. Look at odo or trip meter if digital, check engine light if analog. Digital will display the code such as p0301, which is cyl 1 misfire.
Oops....this is OBD II it will be the odo. The check engine light is OBD. 98 is OBD II.
Sorry for the confusion.
 
Slap Stick said:
ON,OFF,ON, OFF, ON. Do NOT turn to START. Look at odo or trip meter if digital, check engine light if analog. Digital will display the code such as p0301, which is cyl 1 misfire.
Oops....this is OBD II it will be the odo. The check engine light is OBD. 98 is OBD II.
Sorry for the confusion.
Click to expand...
I thought that's what I did, don't think I went all the way to start. I'll give it another shot here soon. No confusion, I know what you meant.
 
Slap Stick said:
BTW, it must be done quickly or it won't work.
Good luck.
Also, did you look down the throttle body with the flutterbys open?
Click to expand...
I turned the key quickly when I tried.

I didn't look down the throttle body, what an I looking for?
 
Oil on the bottom of the intake. This is a sign of a blown intake plenum gasket, as another member posted. A minor leak causes minor oil consumption and the HVAC controls dont work properly On acceleration, say up a hill the HVAC defaults to the floor vents. Let off the throttle and it will go back to where it is set, let's say the dash.
If it's a bit worse, the added oil causes detonation at higher throttle settings. Completely blown out it does what you are decribing, or won't even run.
To repair, the intake must be removed and the plate that separates the intake from the lifter gallery must be removed and the gasket replaced. But wait! There's more! That plate is very flimsy and it "oil cans", causing the gasket to go bad.
The proper fix is to either make a thicker plate, or for about $150 from Hughes Engines you get a kit with the plate, all gaskets, bypass hose and the longer bolts needed.
Common problem on the Magnum series LA based engines.
 
Ok, I have properly functioning heat controls, does what I tell it to do. Once it runs, it's pretty much normal as can be. The trucks I've seen suck the intake gasket in, all ran like crap when running, only run for a minute, if that. So I've put that to the side of reasons, but it has been in the back of my mind.

As I said, it only did it in the winter, below freezing, and this year was the first time it did it above freezing. I'd imagine if the intake issues were happening, it would have done it much more often, and have run mich worse. I have driven the truck plenty for something like that to make itself much more apparent.

But I'll take a gander and see if I have oil sitting in the intake. I've know about the Hughes solution for many years, glad they have that kit to remedy the problem. I'll let you know what I find.
 
Kool beans! Good luck!
One other thing it might be is the ECU temp sensor. This is not the sensor for the gauge. It tells the ECU what the engine temp is. If the ECU thinks the engine is warm it wont set the A/F ratio for cold start. There are two temp sensors at the front of the engine on the intake. The one I'm referring to is on the driver side of the stat.
I had one go bad on my old V6 and it didn't act up until the engine was warm. Then it would miss and buck.
 
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