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78 dodge d150 cracked frame at the steering box

I just took a picture you can see the hump. Back on my phone it seems to run slowly on this site not sure why.
 

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you wont break the ears off the pump if the plate is made bigger than the footprint of the pump, so it has "full bearing" on the pump and frame.
 
Normally I would know that this would be true, my concern is, by looking at the pump there is no way that is can be flat unless that hump part goes into the frame or I build up vertically two flat pieces to get that hump off of the piece that I would weld for extra support around the bolt holes?
 
Volaredon, yes when I welded the cracks and the holes too. I would have liked to welded the plate inside too Mopar but with that brace that I there is no way that i can see it working correctly. I sent that picture of the brace and you can see how the dodge connection welded those Pieces over the holes so that it all fits as flat as possible. I wouldn't have been able to bend all four corners and then match that hump section without breaking it for sure. I had just a little hump to try and bend and it was breaking just trying to bend it a little. Maybe I can make two half inch stipes of metal and try and bend them to fit by themselves in that hump section then weld that other 2 sections in their place. know that I won't get the full strength of one solid piece?
 
Time to get the grinder out, make a hole for that hump and put the plate inside the frame rail. The sector then can be bolted were it should be with no clearance issues. With the brace on it you should be able to get by without even plating it. As in no flex no tear. The flex is what cracked the frame anyway.
 
you might want to research the s-box frame box out kit jungle makes over at ramchargercentral.com i used both the complete frame box kit, and s-box kit, for my 1974 cummins swapped ramcharger, for the added weight, and more importantly, torque.
 
The Cummins adds a lot of to the front. Adding a complete box kit on a normal street driven truck is a bit over kill. But for your Ramcharger frame that was never designed for that kind of load it was a wise choice. Hope your not still running around on half or three quarter ton springs and axle.
 
im just recommending for the s-box, a look at the kit jungle sells includes 3/8" thick dom tube that mount bolts and box finish with, dom welds to both box sides, ive seen alot of frames with same damage usually from running big tires. the rc is just running, no dshafts, and cooler/condenser/radiator next, with body metal as runner up, lots of work left. complete d-line transplant from '92 w250.
 
I did a little more welding on the inside of the c rail and it was tight for sure. I needed a couple more hands to hold a flash light but none were available lol. Then I tried to put the steering box back in place just to see how to do it and I can tell that it's going to be a real pain trying to get it back connected to the steering shaft and bbn bolted into position.
 
When I took the bolts out of the steering shaft I had everything out bolt,nuts and washer the those locking washers (I believe), fell to the ground can anyone suggest the proper order these are to go in thanks.
 

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