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1979 Dodge W150 Warlock Backfiring

Rest assured the exhaust is on its last leg lol It's barely hanging in there. Parts of a mouse nest came out of the passenger side exhaust pipe earlier today
 
7mopar said:
Have you checked for exhaust leaks?
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Exhaust leaks !? Did you "see" his mufflers ! ? :wideyed: lol There's "some" of his problem's , I bet he's sucking in air farther up the exhaust causing it to pop .
 
By the way , welcome to FTO . You might want to check your wires again and make sure there not arcing off of a manifold or each other or anything . Also in the future I'm with Mob and use Champions in a Mopar . Not saying this is your issue now , but just saying . By the way , What did you gap your plugs at ? Also for future reference with the timing . Bring your #1 piston up to top dead , check your balancer and the line "should be" at 0 on the pointer and your rotor "should be" at #1 in your cap . That's a good starting point .
 
bear said:
By the way , welcome to FTO . You might want to check your wires again and make sure there not arcing off of a manifold or each other or anything . Also in the future I'm with Mob and use Champions in a Mopar . Not saying this is your issue now , but just saying . By the way , What did you gap your plugs at ? Also for future reference with the timing . Bring your #1 piston up to top dead , check your balancer and the line "should be" at 0 on the pointer and your rotor "should be" at #1 in your cap . That's a good starting point .
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Yup, Yup and, Yup. make sure basics are spot on. Then go deeper if needed to.
 
Okay I'm gonna go ahead and try all that either tmrw or Monday when I get a chance. Thanks again for the help
 
Update on the old warlock. I replaced the brake booster and every brake line on the truck today. I bled the master cylinder, then bled all the brakes with the pedal method. Before the booster was replaced, the pedal pulled to the floor, now I'm getting a pedal that falls to the floor when I go to press the brakes, but it doesn't pull to the floor any longer.

Any thoughts on why it goes to the floor?? No apparent leaks
 
Forgot to mention... With the new brake booster, the engine is running fine now. No backfires anymore, it's holding timing at 12 degrees. It does smoke still, but the Bardhal stop smoke is helping limit it.
 
Vacuum leak through the supply hose for the booster, sneaky bastard! How did you bleed the brakes? I've been told that you should start at the right rear and work your way forward when bleeding a complete system, or you'll never get all the air out.

I have a loose fitting going to my booster, and when I swapped to a dual circut master, I never bled the brakes and even though they are sloppy they work fairly well, as long as I remember to give a "safety" pump first.
 
So your thinking the vacuum hose from the back of the manifold to the booster has a hole in it??
I had my wife press the brake pedal and hold it as I opened and closed the bleeder valves on each wheel, starting at right rear, left rear, right front, left front. She said when she bled them they felt solid and couldn't get more then half a pedal down. But with it running like I mentioned it goes to the floor.
I'll check all my fittings again but I don't think any are loose, as I didn't see any fluid puddling or spitting out yesterday
 
Update:
Brake pedal does not get firm at all. I used a one man bleeder kit, did all the wheels in order again, and after it was all said and done, the pedal never got firm. I've bled them now twice. Any ideas??
 
Replace the vacuum valve on the booster. If you have brakes with it shut off and none with it on you would have to have a vacuum problem. There should possible be a small port at the booster valve to check the vacuum or lack of it. If you are not hearing a hissing sound from the booster brakes applied or not the booster should be ok.
Did you adjust the ms push rod when you replaced it. It should just varley sit off ( not touching ) the ms when set right.
 
The master is old? If you had half pedal after bleeding why did you bleed again? If the pedal never get's firm you either have a leak or the master is bad. The calipers and wheel cylinders are dry? Do you have anything to plug the master cylinder outlets with? If you plug the outlets and pump the master it should get firm unless it is bypassing internally.
 
Like 7mopar said vacuum going to booster. The valve could be bad, easily replaced, just barbed ends going to both the hose and booster. Cheap too. The brakes should be fine as for the bleeding, you got them right the first time. Simple little things often cause annoying troubles.
 
First post on the brakes was taking my wife's word on it as she was pumping the brakes and I was bleeding the valves. When I decided to check for myself I found that I couldn't pump the brakes firm at all, truck on or not.
I went ahead and kept the old master thinking it looked fine.
I did not adjust the booster pushrod. Thought that was a one size fits all application. Even if while bleeding the brakes I got plenty of fluid out with each press of the pedal, I should still have to adjust that?
And I'm going to try to make or buy something to plug those outlets on the MC and try pumping it to see if it'll get a solid pedal bc there is no leak in the system.

I guess my fear was something was wrong with the hold off/ proportioning valve. Any input on just bypassing that? I have it all hooked up, I was just curious about bypassing it, as my 73 charger doesn't have one and it stops just fine with the same brake set up (disc up front drum out back)
 
Did you bench bleed the new master cylinder? Run two old brake lines (with fittings) from the outlet back into the religion, putting the end of the tube right down to the floor of the resivior and then pumping the master up. I install it with these line still on and take them off just before I put the new line on. Then bleed as normal.

As for the proportioning valve, you want it. You need some way to balance the brakes and that is the factory's solution for achieving that goal. All cars have them.
 
I bled the master with it on the truck but did the same thing you mentioned to do (have done it 3 times now to be sure)

I'm kicking myself now... When I redid the rear drum brakes I threw the old adjuster screws back in there bc I wasn't sure what they did... They are frozen solid and won't extend at all.. So the drum and wheel would spin freely. I've got 2 new ones on order. Hopefully when their in and adjusted my brake pedal will be fixed
 
Markzilla8 said:
I bled the master with it on the truck but did the same thing you mentioned to do (have done it 3 times now to be sure)

I'm kicking myself now... When I redid the rear drum brakes I threw the old adjuster screws back in there bc I wasn't sure what they did... They are frozen solid and won't extend at all.. So the drum and wheel would spin freely. I've got 2 new ones on order. Hopefully when their in and adjusted my brake pedal will be fixed
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I had an old Jimmy that the rear brakes never worked, as I found out when a brake line blew. I got to pay $140 for the guy to cap a line after beating the daylights out of the drums to get them off. My brake pedal did have a good firm feel to it though. I hope those adjusters help bit I'm not sure if that's your current issue.
 
I installed the adjusters today, the pedal feels way better! Haven't been able to take it out on the road yet, just a short ride up the driveway and it felt good.
Here's to hoping their squared away
 
Markzilla8 said:
I installed the adjusters today, the pedal feels way better! Haven't been able to take it out on the road yet, just a short ride up the driveway and it felt good.
Here's to hoping their squared away
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Awesome! That's got to make you feel better.
 
Oh absolutely! Still have a few more odds and ends to make it road worthy but I'm getting there. Still have to do the parking brake (cable is so corroded and shot I'm just going to do a new one), need the exhaust done, and need to build a wood bed for it
 
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